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10 Oct 2010

circumnavigation of geschriebenstein

I am proudly announcing the first circumnavigation of Geschriebenstein = Írott-kő peak (884 m AMSL) since time immemorial. Which, admittedly, wasn't too difficult as possibly few people since the evolution of mankind ever found it worth trying to achieve this.

But I also tried, and managed, to do so without getting any weird questions asked about what I was trying to achieve there - which I did by avoiding fellow Austrians (I couldn't quite avoid all Hungarians*) but they still didn't ask me any questions, possibly because for them, with this peak being the biggest one of whole Western Hungary, while your average Austrian just would consider it being a hill, the achievement might even count for something.)

*) Oh, and of course of them were plenty: first today it was a lovely sunny sunday, and secondly this peak is even more popular with Hungarians (it being the biggest one of Western Hungary, did I mention that already? ... well, it is of course also the biggest one of Burgenland but still I'd say that Hungarians visiting the peak outnumber Austrians by ... well, dunno, by much!)
Above you can see the lovely Hungarian side, with mostly naturally grown forests while on the Austrian side ugly spruce plantations dominate in the peak region. And the rock below is the boundary marker no. B122 - put up in 1922 as Burgenland belonged to Hungary till 1921 - there wasn't a borderline there previously, it was only then when the border was put up.
It was a "green" border then though, easily to be penetrated by smugglers and mushroom pickers; which changed radically after 1945 when at first it became "just" dangerous to cross the border and later, when the Iron Curtain was put up, became virtually impossible. You can see the death zone of no-man's-land down there, if you only know what to look for:
And I don't mean the boundary marker. :) Watch the trees: to the left the Austrian side - spruce monoculture (when there, in this region and at this altitude, naturally a spruce-beech-fir mixed forest would evolve), to the right the Hungarian one - here rather young birch trees only: this was the death zone, no trees were allowed to grow there, between the actual border and the iron fence which was put up at some distance from the borderline; and when the Iron Curtain was removed the first trees to take root there were the pioneers of nature - birches.